Trip Report - Arctic Expedition on Atlas Ocean Voyages

Exploring the snowy landscape of the Arctic on foot

I am back from my Arctic Adventure and can't wait to give you a recap of my experience! I had been wanting to get to the Arctic since exploring Antarctica and I was very excited to jump on this opportunity when it presented itself. I am going to be honest and just say while I had a wonderful time it wasn't quite what I had expected. Maybe it was because it was early in the season or maybe it was because I had already been to Antarctica and nothing can compare after going there. Every trip is different and I always enjoy my travels but having the right expectation can be key to have an amazing time vs just a good time. I also think that is why everyone should use an experienced travel agent to help set the right expectation for them to ensure they are using their vacation time wisely.

Getting to the Arctic

There are a few options for doing an Arctic Adventure.  I chose a Norway one that visited Svalbard.  The first challenage of going on my Arctic Adventure was getting to the starting point.  I chose a cruise that started in Tromso, Norway and ended in Longyearbyen.   Since Longyearbyen is rather remote the cruise line included a charter flight at the end of the cruise to get us all back to Oslo.   That made getting home easier but getting to Tromso required 2 connections for me out of Philadelphia.   I connected in London and then Helsinki.   My connection in Helsinki was pretty tight and I realized a bit late that I would have to go through EES in Helsinki as that was my first entry into the EU.   I will do a report on EES soon but for now all I can say is I am glad Helsinki was a small uncrowded airport to go through my first time.   I made it to my flight just in time and it was as small prop plane which I had not expected.   Landing in Tromso kind of reminded me of some of the smaller airports Alaska.  I had a pre night booked at a hotel by the port and was happy to wake up the next morning and find the ship parked right outside my window.   I enjoyed Tromso and would definitely recommend visiting, perhaps on a cruise up the coast of Norway.

This cruise was part expedition and part regular cruise.   That meant we had a couple days where we knew what port and and times for our stops and could book excursions for those days.   The expedition days were called Captain's Choice so we didn't really know where we end up those days but that is what I love about expeditions! 

Day 1 - This was sort of an expedition day as we were not in a town but instead we anchored off of Bjørnøya (Bear Island).  It is an uninhabited island halfway between Spitsbergen and the North Cape so it was sort of a pit stop for us so we wouldn't have too much time at sea.  This was a day where everyone got to experience the zodiacs and we explored this nature preserve that is full of so many birds (they should change the name to bird island because there are no bears). For some guests it might have been the first time they went out on a zodiac so it was a nice introduction for them.

A dramatic rock formation with a natural arch frames a stunning ocean view and the North Cape off in the distance

Day 2 - Skarsvag (North Cape)    With a population around 60 people there wasn't a whole lot to do at this stop.   The main excursion was to go out to the North Cape.   I opted to just explore on my own.   What we hadn't realized was that if you wanted a cab you had to plan ahead because it would take an hour to get a taxi because they were coming from the other side of the island.  There was a nice hiking trail that took us out to a point where we could see the North Cape off in the distance.  The views were amazing and there were some really cool looking rock formations so it was great hike.   I was glad the weather was cooperating because I hadn't packed a jacket because the cruise said we would be given parkas onboard.   What they hadn't told us is that we wouldn't get the parkas until we got to the expedition part of the cruise.   As the first cruise of the season I think ours was a little different and the expedition started on the 4th day.

Day 3 - Hammerfest, which claims to be the Northernmost city in the world - I had an excursion booked today called Husky Hike.   I of course picked this because I love dogs and I was expecting something similar to the sled dog excursions I have done in Alaska.  Unfortunately I was disappointed.   The dogs were waiting for us at the port as we got off the ship.   We each were given a harness and then picked a dog to walk.   As we walked around the town the guides told us a bit more about the dogs and their job as sled dogs.   It was was interesting but I kind of felt like we paid to be dog walkers.   I had thought we would heading out the sled dog's camp and would meet the dogs there and the hike would at least be in the woods not just around town.   I was also hoping there would be puppies like Alaska always has.   It was still fun to hang with the dogs but not what I had expected for the excursion.  As much as I love dogs I would not recommend this excursion.

Snow-covered mountains rise majestically creating a serene Arctic landscape with fractured ice sheets reflecting the overcast sky.

Day 4 - Hornsund, Svalbard - Our Expedition finally started!   We were given our boots and parkas and put into groups to either go on shore or on the zodiacs.   Our first landing I was so excited but I quickly realized that without penguins to greet you a landing just isn't quite the same (for those of you that might not know there are no penguins in the Arctic).  One nice thing about being early in the season was at least there was still snow on the ground.  The guides told us most of the time they visit here there is no snow, which surprised me. I just assumed there was always snow and ice in the Arctic.  We walked around a bit and had to avoid some of the slushy snow that you could sink into up to your knees.  The guides had set up a marked path and multiple guides armed with rifles were always on polar bear watch.    The second half of our expedition day was going out on the zodiacs.   The fast ice was coming in so it got a little crazy trying to navigate through that but that was about all of the excitement for that ride.

A walrus rests comfortably on the sandy shore, with its distinctive tusks and wrinkled skin visible, embodying the serene Arctic environment.

Day 5 - Gullybukta and Smeerenburg -   First up was a zodiac ride where we spotted Walruses.   I hadn't realized you will only find walruses in the Arctic so it was cool to see a bunch of them hanging around on beach and popping their heads up around our boats.   That was until our guide told us that if the walruses decided they didn't like us they could flip our boat.  Just about the time he told us that our zodiac broke down.   There were always multiple zodiacs out so one quickly came to our rescue.  We had just gotten hitched up to our tow when 2 walrus heads popped up very close to our zodiac.   I think our guide had a slight panic attack and he let us know he was rather afraid of walruses but not to worry.   We made it back to ship without any issues.   I did watch from my room as other zodiacs came back to the ship and the same 2 walruses seemed to be tracking them and sometimes following them.  I guess they didn't think we were a threat but they watched closely just in case.

Next up was a landing at Smeerenburg which translates to blubber town.   It was once one of the largest whaling stations in Spitsbergen.   We saw some of the remnants as we walked around the beach.  I honestly was not really a fan of walking around a place where so many whales were killed and processed for their blubber even if it was hundreds of years ago.   We had yet to spot any whales in the water and part of me wondered if they remembered that this wasn't a safe place so they didn't come around here.  

That night we celebrated crossing the 80th latitude which meant we were very close to the North Pole.

Day 6 - the North Pole!    We woke up in the morning to find we had crossed the 81st latitude, which is pretty much the farthest north we could go.  The ship was surrounded by ice which actually is what I sort of expected for the whole trip.    We only spent a short time in the ice before the captain found a spot for crazy people to do the the polar plunge.  I did not take part in that as I think water under 85 degrees is too cold so I cannot imagine 32 degrees.   It was fun watching the people jump in though.   We were supposed to have another zodiac excursion but some heavy snow and fog had rolled in so that was cancelled.   The guides improvised with some chats.  Tonight was the crew show onboard which is always so fun.   There are so many talented crew members on every cruise and it is nice that they get the chance to share that with us.

The majestic Lilliehookbreen glacier towers over the serene Arctic waters, its icy blue facade contrasting with the rugged snow-covered peaks in the background.

Day 7 - Ny Alesund and Lilliehookbreen - Ny Alesund is a permanent research station run by 19 institutions from 11 countries.   We were able to dock here and had a couple hours to walk around however since it is a research station there were quite a few rules.   Number one was that the ship had to turn off the wifi.  We also were not allowed to leave the path or go past where guides were stationed.    There was the spot where we could mail home a post card from basically the north pole.  

After that we headed over to Lilliehookbreen which is a gorgeous, huge glacier.    It runs the length of about 22 KM.  It was a picture perfect day and the blue on the glacier seemed to glow.  I love the sound of the ice when you get closer to the glacier and you can hear the air escaping!  The ship has an open bridge so as long as the Captain has the door open you can pop in.   I talked to the captain a bit and he said this was his first time at this glacier in May.   He said he is normally up here in late June and the view is never as clear as it was today.  He said normally the glacier is hidden in fog and you don't get to see that vibrant blue.   I asked about whales and he basically said that the chance of seeing any was pretty slim.  I was bummed and I didn't realize that when I planned this adventure.  It was good for me to learn since I like to be able to help my clients find the right cruise for what they want to see and do.   So now I know early season in the Arctic you probably won't see whales.   I still think their ancestors past down the memory that this area was not safe for them so that is why not many come up there.

Our cruise was almost over and still no sign of the elusive polar bear.  Almost as if on cue one appeared as we were at dinner.  It was so funny to see as the Captain announced Polar Bear off the bow and everyone jumped up and left their tables to go outside and get a glimpse.  I am sure the chef was not a happy camper since most people had ordered dinner just prior to the bear appearing.  The polar bear sure did put on a show so it was worth delaying dinner.   He quickly moved about and ended up down on a beach where he found a walrus carcass to feast on.   I have to say it seemed like the perfect finale to our adventure.

A polar bear stands on a rocky shoreline, inspecting a walrus carcass, showcasing the harsh realities and survival instincts in the Arctic wilderness.

Day 8 - Longyearbyen - this is where our cruise ended.    We had a few hours to get off and explore town before the charter flight we were all on to get back to Oslo.    There was a cafe in town that had retired huskies that got to hang out with guests so of course I had to stop there.   Then it was time to disembark and head to Oslo.  

Norway is beautiful and getting to go so far North was amazing, however after having been to Antarctica I was a little disappointed.  I was told I need to get to Greenland so I might have to give the Arctic another go one day but for now I am happy to be heading home to summer weather. 

Cool view from the top deck of the expedition ship as ice moved in

A gorgeous day for glacier viewing in the Arctic

Enjoying the sun as we explored between floating ice of the Arctic in a zodiac